Elijah Craig Barrel Proof Rye Is a Winner

Welcome to Taste Test, where every week our critic Jonah Flicker explores the most buzzworthy and interesting whiskeys in the world. Check back each Sunday for his latest whiskey review.

Over a decade ago, Heaven Hill made whiskey fans very happy by releasing a barrel-proof version of its popular Elijah Craig bourbon. This expression now comes out three times per year at different proofs depending on the batch, sometimes reaching near hazmat levels. Earlier this week, the distillery launched another whiskey that fans have been asking for—a barrel-proof version of Elijah Craig Rye—and the debut is a relatively low-proof whiskey (thankfully) that is also a roaring success.

Elijah Craig is known as being an affordable and dependable bourbon brand. It lost its 12-year-old age statement nearly a decade ago in 2016, switching to a blend of whiskey aged between eight and 12 years. This move made some fans unhappy, but the reality is that the bourbon’s quality really didn’t suffer. The barrel-proof version retained that age statement for a while after that, but it was also removed a couple of years ago, switching from a consistent number to ages that vary depending on the batch, just like the proof (the whiskey has consistently been close to the 12-year mark since then, although there have been expressions as low as nine years old and one close to 14).

Elijah Craig Rye was first introduced in 2020, and it turned out to be a hit—it’s an inexpensive, non-age statement rye made from a Kentucky-style “just legal” mashbill of 51 percent rye, 35 percent corn, and 14 percent malted barley, putting it in direct competition with other expressions from major distilleries in the state. Which brings us to the release of the excellent new Elijah Craig Barrel Proof Rye Whiskey. The mashbill remains the same, but it is much stronger and older than the regular rye—108 proof, which is a perfectly civilized amount of alcohol, and 12 years and three months old, an advanced age that suits it quite well.

Despite the recipe containing exactly the legally required amount of rye grain to be considered a rye whiskey, the barrel-proof version reads much more “rye” than the original as you sip, and that’s a good thing. This is a very floral whiskey, with an undercurrent of fruit and notes of menthol, licorice, ripe peach, caramel, vanilla, black pepper, and hot cinnamon on the palate. 108 proof is still totally sippable, but this whiskey also drinks well poured over a large ice cube. And I encourage you to use it in a Manhattan, because the ample spice and heat mean that it can cut through all of the sweet vermouth, bitters, and syrupy cherries you throw at it.

The Barrel Proof Rye lineup is being coded just like the bourbon—the first release is called Batch A925, meaning it’s the first batch of the year, released in September of 2025 (it’s possible that there may not be three batches this year, given that it’s already September). I am really looking forward to seeing how Elijah Craig Barrel Proof Rye shifts and changes in terms of proof and age as releases continue to come out. But the debut has set a very high standard, so hopefully future releases can live up to it.

Score: 95

See Also

Frank August’s Bourbon-Rye Blend Is Excellent