How Spätlese Riesling Is the Result of a Happy Accident 25 Years Ago

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Some of the world’s most beloved wine styles were first discovered by accident. The original Champagnes weren’t bottled with the intent of undergoing secondary fermentation that would cause its trademark bubbles to form. Brandy wasn’t first added to Port barrels to make fortified wine, but to preserve the liquid on its journeys at sea. And the initial Spätlese Riesling from Germany was also the product of happenstance.

It begins with a particular Prince Abbot. Back in 1775, the grapes grown at the Schloss Johannisberg estate in Germany’s Rheingau region could not be picked until a permit was issued by the cleric leading the abbey, known as the Prince Abbot. So the Benedictine monks tending to the vineyards each year sent grapes to their leader at the Fulda monastery nearly 100 miles away and waited to receive word that they could commence harvest. But in 1775—for reasons still unknown—the horseback courier arrived back two weeks late, when botrytis had already infected Riesling grapes growing in the vineyards. Fearing the worst for their bounty, the monks still pressed forward with the grapes they’d largely given up on, and to their surprise, the resulting wine was stunning.

“While this would have seemed like a disaster at the time, the resulting wine turned out to be surprisingly rich, aromatic, and beautifully balanced, sweeter than the typical wines of the era but still vibrant with acidity,” says Danny Mastropierro, the general manager and wine director at Bar Sprezzatura in San Francisco. “It’s like biting into a ripe peach with a splash of citrus—luscious yet zesty.”

Fortunately, the Prince Abbot back in the 18^th century must have had a sweet tooth, because he deemed the first vintage of Spätlese—German for late harvest—more than acceptable. “He was greatly taken by this newly created wine, which immediately became not only his personal favorite, but also attracted wide recognition,” says Stefan Doktor, managing director of Schloss Johannisberg. “Historical records show that connoisseurs of all kinds flocked to Schloss Johannisberg in order to obtain this special wine, among them the future President Thomas Jefferson, who visited in 1793.”

Historical records show that from the discovery of the Spätlese in 1775 onward, the practice at Schloss Johannisberg was to postpone the harvest. “This was the explicit instruction of the decision maker at the time, and it has been followed continuously ever since,” Doktor says. Schloss Johannisberg further refined its approach to harvesting, introducing Auslese in 1787, which meant selecting grapes even later in the season, especially those affected by botrytis. Eventually, Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese emerged as additional categories as the German wine Prädikat classification system, which indicates sugar quantity at harvest, was developed.

Today harvest preferences are based on science and personal judgment rather than permits from religious authorities. They include several key criteria, which for Doktor include “the physiological ripeness of the grapes, their health condition, and, above all, the level of acidity.” Of course, this requires an incredible sense of equilibrium in the vineyard, including pinpointing when the grapes have reached full ripeness while still retaining a very high level of acidity, leaving a very small window for picking.

One of the northernmost wine regions in the world, the Rheingau benefits from lengthy summer days, with strong sunlight from 5 a.m. until 10:30 p.m. around the summer solstice. “This abundance of daylight hours is crucial for Riesling, since the variety requires a great deal of sun exposure to ripen fully,” Doktor says. At the same time, cool nights that are aided by strong mountain breezes and mountain-born thermal currents help to preserve freshness in the grapes. The Rhine River also plays a key role. So wide in some parts that it resembles a lake, the river acts as a thermal regulator that offers steady warmth as well as the humidity required for the formation of botrytis. In addition to Rheingau, the best Rieslings come from Rheinhessen, Pfalz, and Mosel, and other producers to look for include Raimund Prüm, Dr. H. Thanisch, Dr. Loosen, S.A. Prüm, and Weingut Wittman.

While in general Spätlese can run from off-dry to sweet, within the VDP—the association of Germany’s leading wine estates—it was decided more than 10 years ago to “follow a strict path: all wines labeled with a Prädikat are connected with residual sweetness,” Doktor says. “This means that Kabinett, Spätlese, and Auslese are each clearly defined by a certain taste profile, and no additional indication of sweetness is required.” Some producers outside the VDP continue to produce versions that are not fully sweet, so it is important to ask a salesperson or sommelier for advice if you are not well acquainted with German labeling regulations.

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As for when to drink Spätlese Riesling, Mastropierro enjoys it paired with spicy dishes. “The residual sugar in the wine helps mellow the heat in certain cuisines, allowing for a more harmonious and enjoyable dining experience,” he says. At Bar Sprezzatura, he recommends it alongside polpo cicchetti, an octopus dish made with pickled Fresno chilis, or shrimp alla Veneziana, a pasta preparation that includes Calabrian chili. “The natural sweetness and vibrant acidity of the Spätlese Riesling help balance that spice, while also brightening the overall flavors of the dishes,” he says.

Farther down the coast, at Foray Restaurant in Carmel-by-the-Sea, general manager Jose V. Gutierrez likes the way Spätlese Riesling’s tropical fruit, citrus, and herb notes combine to allow for a variety of pairings. On Foray’s current tasting menu, he serves it with a Mano de Leon scallop with salmon roe, pea tendril, and sea lettuce beurre blanc. “The acidity and sweetness of the wine compliment the saline notes of the scallop, and the pea tendril brings out the herbal notes in the wine,” he says. While the classic pairing elsewhere may be schnitzel with sides of potato and cucumber salads, Gutierrez likes to pair Spätlese with dishes such as oysters with melon granita and halibut with mussel reduction. He also likes to pour it alongside a cheese plate, a practice we can really get behind, especially if there are blue or well-bloomed creamy styles involved. Again, the wine’s sweetness and acidity combined with the saltiness and tanginess of the cheese are a match made in foodie heaven. As Gutierrez tells us, “Once you try it for the first time and understand the versatility of this wine, it is the gift that keeps on giving.”

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