The place to Eat: 5 Eating places to Do this February

This month, our editors are particularly hooked on Italy’s rich and varied regional cuisines, with Piedmontese, Tuscan and Swiss-Italian on our minds, and stomachs. For something more cosy, we also check out a natural wine bar. And for something ultra elevated, Thai fine dining hit the spot. Here are all the best dishes we’ve tried this February 2024.

Seasonal bites at Nocino

Brown Crab Cacio e Pepe at Nocino — Brown Crab Cacio e Pepe

Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the city is Tai Hang’s increasingly popular Swiss-Italian rustic concept Nocino. Helmed by chef Matthew Ziemski, who named the restaurant after his family’s traditional grappa and walnut blended liqueur, the cosy grotto-styled space offers some of the most heartwarming dishes from two of Europe’s most celebrated culinary heritages. Like many other restaurants these days, Nocino’s menu changes seasonally, but its current menu features delicacies perfect for the cooler weather, including appetisers such as Malakoff signature Swiss Gruyere fried cheese fondue and house rosemary focaccia, small bites including wagyu beef tartare, roasted pumpkin salad and a mixed cured meat and cheese board, as well as fresh pastas made in-house spanning duck ragu reginette, gorgonzola fondue gigli and brown crab cacia e pepe casarecce. Finish with a beautiful serving of Odette’s tiramisu before you toast to a lusciously satisfying evening with a glass of nocino. Important note though: make sure to book weeks ahead! – Jeff Yeung

Nocino, Shop 92E, Tung Lo Wan Road, Tai Hang. Reserve here.

Nose-to-Tail Dining at Carna by Dario Cecchini

Carna by Dario Cecchini's Steak Tartare — Steak Tartare

Situated in the newly opened Mondrian Hong Kong hotel is Carna by Dario Cecchini, and if that name somehow rings a bell, it’s because you’ve probably seen it before. Cecchini, who’s descended from eight generations of butchers in Panzano, starred in Netflix’s hugely popular “Chef’s Table” series, demonstrating not only his huge respect and passion for his animals but his truly charismatic presence that touches every single person whose ever stepped through his Tuscan shop. And here in Hong Kong, at his first outpost in the city, guests can expect the same reverential dining experience. Carna is helmed by his disciple and fellow Tuscany native Daniele Milliani, who shares his mentor’s philosophy and flair. Expect plenty of dishes to be prepared tableside, including a delightful steak tartare that requires few other ingredients to make the meat shine. Cecchini hesitates to call Carna a steakhouse, instead saying it’s a “whole cow house” in reference to its nose-to-tail concept. With 18 different cuts of meat to choose from, including its signature charcoal-grilled steak that’s best eaten with Cecchini’s special Chianti salt, diners are spoiled for choice. There’s also a strong no-wastage ethos running through the restaurant, which extends to its cocktail menu; the Carna Beef Fat Washed Bourbon with Salted Maple Syrup is particularly delicious. – Stephanie Ip

Carna by Dario Cecchini, 39/F, Mondrian Hong Kong, 8A Hart Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui. Reserve here.

“Immersion in Piedmont” at Castellana

Vitello Tonnato at Castellana — Vitello Tonnato

With its roots firmly planted in Piedmont, the exquisite Castellana invites diners on a culinary voyage to this spellbinding region through their latest tasting menu – “Immersion in Piedmont”. Carefully crafted by the esteemed Chef Romeo Morelli, this menu showcases the seasonal treasures of Italy’s gastronomic paradise. The culinary adventure commences with a tantalising marriage of river prawns and tangy Amalfi lemon, swimming in a delectable porcini mushroom broth. As the journey unfolds, Castellana transports guests to the bountiful land along the breath-taking coast, inviting them to savour the indulgent flavours of Vitello Tonnato, a Piedmontese masterpiece enhanced by Chef Romeo’s innovative touch – raw bluefin tuna adorned with delicate slices of Fassona veal. After a hearty Minestrone packed with the freshest seasonal vegetables follows Piedmont’s pièce de résistance – Chef’s Signature Piedmontese Ragù. This delectable dish included three pasta variations adorned with succulent Fassona beef, slow cooked in a Dolcetto d’Alba red wine. For the main, we recommend treating yourself to Oberto’s delectable Fassona Tenderloin, a brilliant fusion of sustainable cuisine and the finest cut of Fassona. The dish is complemented by savoury mushrooms and topped off with a decadent Parmesan cheese fondue. And for a delightful conclusion to your gastronomic journey, indulge in chef Romeo’s carefully curated selection of Piedmontese cheeses. A true feast for the senses. – Gennady Oreshkin

Castellana, 1/F, Club Lusitano, 16 Ice House St, Central. Reserve here.

Natural wines and small plates at Crushed Wine Bar

There’s no shortage of new restaurant openings in Hong Kong, but it’s rare to find one that oozes with as much charm as Crushed Wine Bar, the newest female-led establishment to open in Sai Yin Pun. Led by two friends who previously ran the Crushed wine shop, this intimate and welcoming space continues their focus on small-producing vineyards and natural wines, now served alongside familiar yet creative European-style small plates. We’d recommend the braised leeks with almond and garlic puree and the roast acorn squash burrata finished with hazelnut butter and chilli crisp is beautifully done. As for the larger plates, there’s a wild mushroom risotto and a Mexican-style yellow chicken too. Really, that should be enough, but save space for the decadent peanut butter pie—the recipe is taken from the Old Ebbitt Grill, Washington’s oldest restaurant. There’s an upstairs dining room, but we suggest choosing the downstairs bar, a great choice for solo diners, dates, or small groups. You might end up leaving best friends with everyone in the place. – Madelaine Clark

Crushed Wine Bar, Shop A, G/F, 6 – 8 Second St, Sai Ying Pun. Reserve here.

Dong Dang at Plaa

Plaa has always been my go-to restaurant for birthday celebrations or anniversaries. This time, I have secured a table for their exclusive one-night event, the Four Hands dinner with Baan Tepa, a two-star Michelin Thai fine-dining establishment in Bangkok. The dinner consisted of seven courses, each showcasing distinctive flavours and textures. One standout dish was the “Dong Dang,” a noodle made of rice with a texture similar to Korean rice cakes – chewy yet easy to savour a few pieces at a time. The dish was accompanied by a black squid ink sauce infused with a hint of lemongrass, a unique and authentic rendition of squid ink pasta by Chef Tam. After indulging in the four-hands dinner, I couldn’t resist checking for flights to Bangkok for my upcoming visit to her restaurant. – Janice Leung