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Watches and Wonders 2024: Largest highlights and launches on the Geneva truthful

Watches and Wonders 2024: Largest highlights and launches on the Geneva truthful

The highly awaited Watches and Wonders 2024 fair in Geneva is finally here, bringing with it a fresh slate of thrilling new watch launches and highlights from some of the world’s most prominent horological brands. It opened its doors on April 9, to the media and invited guests, and will extend access to the public from April 13 to 15.

This year’s edition features 54 watchmakers, eight of which are new to the event. These include Bremont, Eberhard & Co, ArtyA and Nomos Glashütte. H. Moser & Cie will also be exhibiting at Watches & Wonders 2024, after taking a break from last year’s fair. The full list of participating brands can be found here.

Like previous editions, Watches and Wonders 2024 is held at the Palexpo and includes fringe activities such as conferences, lectures and performances around the city. A new Watchmaking Village, located in the heart of Geneva, has also been set up as a hub for guided watch tours and workshops. On April 11, there was even a celebratory concert at the central stage, headlined by Belgian DJ Lost Frequencies.

watches and wonders 2024
A perfect spot for a photo op at last year’s Watches and Wonders; the 2024 edition takes place from April 9 to 15. (Image: Watches and Wonders)

If you plan on travelling to Geneva this week, you can still purchase Watches and Wonders 2024 tickets for April 14 and 15 online here. Prices range from CHF 40 to CHF 70, and admission is free for children aged 12 and below.

For those unable to attend Watches and Wonders 2024, read on for our guide to all the most important timepiece launches and highlights from the various exhibiting booths at the fair. Watch this space, as we’ll be updating it frequently over the course of the event.

Key launches and highlights of Watches and Wonders 2024

Rolex reinterprets the classics

Rolex has unveiled multiple notable releases for Watches and Wonders 2024. Leading the pack is an updated GMT-Master II, featuring a bidirectional rotatable bezel equipped with a two-colour, 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert in grey and black ceramic. Its graduations and numerals are covered with platinum applied via PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition).

The Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II has a 40mm oyster case that’s waterproof to a depth of 100 metres, and also boasts a cyclops lens over its date to enable easy reading of the numbers. It sports a black lacquer dial inscribed with its name in green, and comes in two variants — one attached to an Oyster bracelet, and the other with a Jubilee bracelet. The watch runs on calibre 3285 which displays its date and an additional time zone in 24-hour format.

Another highlight is the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, now reimagined in two new designs. Fashioned in 18k white gold, the timepiece is crafted with a contrasting dial made from natural mother-of-pearl, and is embellished with eight diamonds and three Chromalight hour markers. Its bejewelled bezel set with 36 brilliant-cut diamonds, adds a final lavish touch to its already sparkling look.

Both versions are equally stunning — one sits on an Oysterflex bracelet and comes with a white mother-of-pearl dial with black mother-of-pearl counters, while the other features an Oyster bracelet and a reverse colourway of a black mother-of-pearl dial and white mother-of-pearl counters. The Cosmograph Daytona is powered by a calibre 4131 and includes bridges adorned with Rolex Côtes de Genève and a cut-out oscillating weight.

Rolex has gotten creative with the Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea as well. Its divers’ watch now comes in 18k yellow gold for the first time and has a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom bezel insert in blue ceramic and a blue lacquer dial emblazoned with the word ‘DEEPSEA’ in powdered yellow. This new iteration is equipped with a Cerachrom ring — a high-performance compression ring in blue ceramic — incorporated within the watch’s Ringlock system, which enables it to withstand immense pressure while enhancing its waterproofness.

There are also the new Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 and Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36, which boast gorgeously designed dials and innovative materials. The Day-Date 40 in 18k Everose gold features a slate ombré dial — a new dial colour option that sees its hue gradually fade to black around its edge. Its dial is paired with faceted, deconstructed Roman numerals and faceted index hour markers in 18k pink gold for a sleek look. Prior to this model, Rolex ombré dials had been used only for the Day-Date 36 and typically came with diamond hour markers. For those who prefer a brighter aesthetic, the Day-Date 40 is also available in a white gold case with a mother-of-pearl dial, which carries a pearlised texture that resembles tiny overlapping clouds for a shimmering effect. Topping this off are baguette-cut diamonds functioning as hour markers.

Meanwhile, the Day-Date 36 also comes in two iterations, both of which showcase a dial with faceted, deconstructed Roman numerals and faceted index hour markers — a design feature previously reserved for the Day-Date 40. We can’t take our eyes off the Day-Date 36 in 18k Everose gold, which has a striking blue-green dial decorated with 10 baguette-cut diamonds as hour markers, and a bezel mounted with 60 trapeze-cut diamonds. Equally elegant is the other Day-Date 36 model in 18k yellow gold, which has a white lacquer dial festooned with faceted, deconstructed Roman numerals and faceted index hour markers in 18k yellow gold.

The Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller is present in two versions this year, both of which are worn on a Jubilee bracelet for the first time. Select from a model crafted in 18k Everose gold with a slate dial, or the other option set in 18k yellow gold with an intense white dial.

Rolex’s Perpetual 1908, a dress watch range introduced last year, gets a new addition that comes in a 39mm platinum case and showcases an ice blue dial crafted with an eye-catching guilloché rice-grain motif that dazzles in the light. It’s set on a brown alligator leather strap with a Dualclasp — a double folding clasp.

View Rolex’s Watches and Wonders 2024 launches and highlights below:

Ulysse Nardin defies convention with the Freak S Nomad

Ulysse Nardin made headlines in 2001 when it first revealed its Freak — a ground-breaking marvel with no conventional hands, dial, or crown. The timepiece has since become emblematic of the brand and its commitment to pushing the boundaries of watchmaking. At Watches and Wonders 2024, Ulysse Nardin once again highlights its star innovation with the Freak S Nomad, a 99-piece limited edition watch with a state-of-the-art movement that calls to mind a spaceship.

This Calibre UN- 251 Manufacture movement comprises a flying carousel that rotates around its own axis, and is equipped with two oscillators with silicon balance wheels inclined at 20 degrees and escapements treated with high-tech DIAMonSIL to boost accuracy and durability. These are connected by a vertical differential system set on ball bearings. Winding is powered by Ulysse Nardin’s Grinder winding system, an automatic system that’s doubly efficient compared to a traditional one.

Composed of 373 components and 33 jewels, the movement is crafted with bridges covered with anthracite PVD, and a minute hand filled with luminous Super-LumiNova that glows light blue in the dark. These are all housed within a 45mm case on the timepiece, which also features a titanium main body, anthracite PVD- coated titanium bezel, and carbon fibre flanks that function as watch lugs. For straps, choose between anthracite rubber ‘ballistic’, or matte anthracite alligator that’s open-worked to expose its sand-hued calfskin leather accents.

It’d be remiss not to mention the hour disc, which is tucked behind the “spaceship” movement and is in itself a work of art. It features a diamond guilloché pattern finished in sand-coloured CVD reminiscent of sand dunes. This intricate pattern comprises a sequence of intersecting curves produced by 240 continuous movements over three-hour intervals, and is handcrafted one at a time by an artisan using a manually operated 18th century rose engine, without the intervention of electronics or laser guidance. There is no room for error — the guillocheur cannot flinch or stop to rest at any point, as doing so would disrupt the seamless pattern and ruin the dial.

Evidently, the Freak S Nomad epitomises the perfect balance between avant-garde watchmaking and traditional craftsmanship.

View Ulysse Nardin’s Freak S Nomad below:

Piaget marks 150 years with innovations and archival designs

Piaget celebrates its 150th anniversary this year with a bounty of new releases. Kicking things off is a pair of Piaget Polo Date 150th Anniversary Editions, comprising his and hers watches in 42mm and 36mm respectively, fashioned in stainless steel and produced in a limited run of 300 pieces each. Both timepieces have dials embellished with the signature gadroons of the original Polo, and feature rose gold-coloured hands with “150” inscribed on the second hand. The men’s watch sports a brown strap, while the women’s version comes with a beige strap and a bezel mounted with 91 brilliant-cut diamonds.

Another standout launch is the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillion, a souped up version of Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept which was unveiled in 2018 and declared the thinnest watch in the world. Like its predecessor, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillion is only 2mm thin despite housing a flying tourbillon within, making it the slimmest tourbillon watch on the market. The watch has a diameter of 41.5 mm, is waterproof up to a depth of 20 metres, and comes with a blue PVD-treated cobalt alloy case. It offers a power reserve of about 40 hours.

Piaget is famed for its jewellery watches, and it certainly delivered on this front at Watches and Wonders 2024. Its new Swinging Sautoir comes in three distinctive and beautiful renditions, two of which are transformable and able to be worn on the wrist. The first, non-transformable model is a pendant watch on a handcrafted gold chain formed by twisting strands of gold into thicker links, and is inspired by an archival design.

Those with a penchant for more flamboyant options will adore the malachite and turquoise beaded necklace, an unabashedly loud jewel with blue and green stones, a diamond-paved hand-twisted gold chain, and an abundance of yellow sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds. These culminate in a 29.24-carat Sri Lankan yellow sapphire and a 6.11-carat aquamarine, from which a turquoise-dial watch lies suspended. The watch can be detached and worn on its own with a green satin strap, while the sautoir can also be worn as a separate necklace.

The other transformable sautoir is no less exquisite, with its two gold chains — one of which is set with diamonds — attached to a kaleidoscopic white opal cabochon weighing 11.68 carats and fringed with white and yellow sparklers. Hanging from this is a detachable watch with a similar opal dial and ringed by gold chains and diamonds. The extravagance doesn’t end there. An emerald-cut yellow sapphire, along with an additional tassel of diamonds, gold and chalcedony, also swing beneath the watch.

Looking once again to its 1969 archives, Piaget has also produced a gold openwork cuff watch with a black opal dial imbued with iridescent green and blue shades. The gold chains are twisted by hand and meticulously shaped to complement the beauty of the dial.

The High Jewellery Aura watch from 1989 has been given a spectacular new lease of life as well, with the launch of two models festooned all over with rubies, pink sapphires and diamonds. One design sees a dial carefully set with rubies that glitter in glorious contrast to their surrounding baguette-cut diamonds. The other variation boasts a gradient of red, pink and white hues thanks to the clever assembly and colour-matching of rubies, pink sapphires, and diamonds. Both timepieces are a triumphant testament to Piaget’s expertise in gem-setting techniques.

View Piaget’s Watches and Wonders 2024 highlights and launches here:

Hermès inspires with artistry and elegance 

Harkening back to the brand’s illustrious equestrian history, Hermès unveiled a collection that perfectly balances horological advancements with timeless elegance and beauty. Chief among this year’s offerings with only 24 pieces available: The Arceau Duc Attelé, a masterpiece that echoes with the superior craftsmanship long associated with the French luxury design house. 

The Arceau Duc Attelé features an intricate tourbillon at its core. (Image: Hermès)

First designed by Henri d’Origny in 1978, the Arceau watch has seen numerous iterations through the years, though none can claim to rival this year’s incredible design. While the Arceau Duc Attelé has retained the asymmetrical lugs and round shape of its predecessors, its modern incarnation features at its core a breathtaking marvel of engineering: a central triple-axis tourbillon housed within a mirror-polished titanium carriage that takes on the form of two intertwined “Hs” to denote the 1990 union of Émile Hermès and Julie Hollande. With three separate axes and rotation speeds, the tourbillon provides an intricate and enchanting look into the precision of watchmaking. 

Beyond providing visual interest, the guilloché decoration (visible on the titanium model) serves to emphasise the soundwaves of the minute repeater hammers. Elegantly crafted to mimic the U-shaped branches of a tuning fork gong, they take on the form of horses, yet another nod to the house’s equestrian history, emitting dulcet tones that recall the celebratory chimes of tolling cathedral bells. 

The horological wonder is equipped with a Manufacture Hermès H1926 movement, a mechanical manual-winding, Swiss-produced movement comprising 563 components and 54 jewels. 

The Arceau Chorus Stellarum is inspired by a silk scarf design by Daiske Nomura. (Image: Hermès)

Yet another opulent masterpiece that recalls the intricate work of artists and artisans, the Arceau Chorus Stellarum takes a more playful and whimsical approach to horology. Inspired by a silk scarf design by Daiske Nomura, the extravagant timepiece is rich in detail, featuring a hand-engraved and hand-painted applique that can be animated by pressing a button at 9 o’clock. Its gothic elements are vividly emphasised, taking the form of a skeletal rider upon a dashing steed. Together, they strike an appealing pose upon an alluring backdrop that evokes the wonder of a dazzling, star-dotted midnight sky.

The Arceau Chorus Stellarum is available in two versions: One, a skeletal horseman set against a dark blue dial within a plain white gold case, and the other, a skeletal horsewoman set against shades of pastel, housed within a white gold case adorned with 70 diamonds upon its bezel. Beyond its superior craftsmanship, the Arceau Chorus Stellarum is equipped with the Hermès H1837 movement, which can be admired through an exhibition caseback of sapphire crystal. 

Rounding off Hermès’ offerings for the year is the Hermès Cut, a brand-new line of mechanical time pieces designed for women of high tastes. Featuring an elegant circular dial, balanced proportions, clean edges, and luminescent applied Arabic numerals, the simplistic timepiece presents itself as a constant and reliable companion for women of elegance in all aspects and situations of life. 

The Hermès Cut also exudes versatility, providing appeal to those who adhere to transformative styles from day to day. Available in full satin-finished steel or enlivened with rose gold, the case can also be ordered with 56 bezel-set diamonds. Further emphasising its timeless appeal, the seamlessly integrated metal bracelet incorporates rounded supple links, with a rubber strap also available in eight Hermès palette hues: white, orange, gris perle, gris étain, glycine, vert criquet, bleu jean, and capucine.

View Hermès’ highlights and launches at Watches and Wonders 2024 below:

Roger Dubuis continues to bring Hyper, Haute Horology 

Echoing the designs of its past through creations that catch the eye, Roger Dubuis continued along this trend at Watches and Wonders 2024. Once again emphasising the elegance of mechanical components fully bared to the naked eye, this year’s offerings celebrate the artistry of the tourbillon in four stunning designs. 

Leading the charge in the quad of new offerings is the Excalibur Sunrise Double Tourbillon, a powerful feat of engineering imbued with the beauty of warm-toned gemstones, with a mere eight pieces available worldwide. The skeletonised watch houses a Calibre RD108SQ of 319 components, combining two flying tourbillons with a regulating differential which together mitigate the effects of gravity for increased accuracy. From crimson garnets to orange spessartite and yellow sapphires, only the most vivid of precious stones were selected to form the 108 gemstones that adorn this arresting timepiece, married together to produce a shine that is reminiscent of dawn. The glow of 18k pink gold serves to emphasise the warmth of the stones, carefully incorporated into the 45 mm case of the piece. 

Next on the list is the Orbis In Machina, a stunning creation that features a central flying tourbillon housed in a reinterpreted skeletonised case. With the heart of the watch serving as ground zero, concentric circles provide an accurate and elegant display for the time at hand; discs in pink, gold, and grey serve to indicate the seconds, minutes, and hours. Powered by a manual-winding Calibre RD115, which is composed of 283 components with 29 rubies, the Orbis In Machina reflects a new age in haute horology, a complex work of art that is telling of the Swiss watchmaker’s extraordinary journey into the future. There are only 88 pieces available worldwide. 

Two more Excalibur models follow to cap off Roger Dubuis’ Watches and Wonders journey of 2024: The Monotourbillon Titanium and the Monotourbillon Dragon in pink gold, with only 28 units available each. While the former is a masterclass in minimalism, the latter pays tribute to the Lunar Year of the Dragon through a breathtakingly intricate display of artistry, featuring 27 dragon parts set on 25 different levels. Both watches are equipped with the RD512SQ Calibre, which provides 72 hours of power reserve. 

View all of Roger Dubuis’ Watches and Wonders 2024 highlights and launches below.

Patek Philippe debuts a mix of casual and classic 

Patek Philippe had a strong showing on home ground at Watches & Wonders 2024, unveiling 11 new iterations of time-honoured classics in line with contemporary aesthetics favoured by the generations of today. 

Patek Philippe added the World Time with Date Ref. 5330G-001 to their regular collection. (Image: Patek Philippe)

Chief among the Genevan watchmakers’ 2024 releases is the World Time with Date, Ref. 5330G-001, an elegant addition to the Complications lineup. First launched at the brand’s 2023 Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo, the Reference 5330 now finds its way into the regular collection, a patented world first that includes a cleverly-fashioned date display that is synchronised with local time. The now-iconic timepiece is outfitted with a new Caliber 240 HU C. movement that features a patented central differential system, utilising two concentric star-type gear wheels to manage the local-time date.

Beyond its core, the Ref. 5330G-001 is a horological masterpiece that reflects movement and travel, with a design that speaks to sporty contemporary styles. The date display mode incorporates a transparent glass hand with a hammer-shaped red tip, providing easy readings without disrupting the legibility of the time. A blue-grey dial flaunts a carbon motif, surrounded by a 24-hour disk that is subdivided into day and night zones demarcated by a small gilt sun on a silvered backdrop to denote the day, and a gilt crescent moon upon a blue-grey backdrop to denote the night. 

The Ref. 5330G-001 features a denim-patterned calfskin strap, but it is not the only watch within Patek Philippe’s 2024 collection to carry it off with aplomb. The Nautilus line receives a new addition to the family in the Nautilus Ref. 5980/60G, which incorporates the same strap, playing off the familiar blue against a white gold case and an opaline blue-grey dial. Beyond aesthetics, the timepiece is outfitted with a self-winding Caliber CH 28‑520 C/522 mechanical movement and a flyback chronograph complication. 

Not to be forgotten, the Aquanaut line received three new references, one of which, the Ref. 5268/461G, inspires awe in the face of its breathtaking dial and design. Evoking the glittering wrist adornments of haute horology, the white gold Aquanaut Luce model features a dial centre paved with baguette-cut diamonds and blue sapphires arranged in the manner of a checkerboard reminiscent of the collection’s emblematic designs.  The hour ring is set with diamonds, whilst the baguette cut blue sapphires take centre stage as hour markers. The lugs and clasp are likewise adorned, bringing the total number of precious stones on the timepiece to a stunning 72 baguette-cut sapphires (5.29 ct), 38 baguette-cut diamonds (2.03 ct), and 160 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.71 ct). It is outfitted with the Caliber 26‑330 S, a self-winding mechanical movement. 

Further cementing the brand’s place as a top contender for Haute Joaillerie watches are two likewise-adorned timepieces within the Golden Ellipse and TWENTY~4 families. The Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738 features its first metal bracelet, a graceful rose gold creation composed of links set in fine rows. The exquisite timepiece is outfitted with Calibre 240, an ultra-thin and self-winding mechanical movement. 

Meanwhile, the TWENTY~4 Ref. 4910/1201R honours the iconic collection’s 25th anniversary, applauding its place as a symbol of timeless elegance. Featuring a refined dial plate embossed with a concentric wave pattern and lacquered for additional visual depth, the rectangular masterpiece is adorned with 34 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.63 ct), its rose gold bracelet proffering additional shine and shimmer. It operates on a quartz Caliber E 15 movement.

View Patek Philippe’s Watches and Wonders 2024 launches and highlights below:

Zenith broaches new heights in the skyline 

Returning to Watches and Wonders 2024, Swiss luxury watchmaker Zenith has unveiled three sporty iterations of the much lauded DEFY line, speaking to the souls of active adventure seekers. Epitomising the brand’s pursuit of horological precision through innovation, the collection marries cutting-edge manufacture movements with contemporary forms, resulting in crisp and sharp silhouettes. 

Leading the charge into Zenith’s new heights, the DEFY Skyline Chronograph is a sculptural masterpiece evocative of modern geometric architecture. An octagonal case, a multi-sided bezel, and intricate facets show off a breathtaking dial adorned in sunburst motifs, with three subdials composed of concentric circles.

Boasting robustness and durability, the timepiece is powered by the El Primero 3600 high frequency automatic manufacture movement, allowing for timekeeping precision no matter the occasion. Available in metallic black, blue, or silver, the timepiece also features an integrated quick strap-change mechanism, with a steel bracelet and a patterned rubber strap available. 

The DEFY Revival A3648 incorporates a vivid, eye-catching orange. (Image: Zenith)

Honouring the reliability and ruggedness that has long been associated with the DEFY line, Zenith unveiled a remade version of one of its most sought-after vintage diver’s watches — the DEFY Revival A3648. The original DEFY A3648, which debuted in 1969, was among Zenith’s earliest DEFY models; it was also one of the earliest DEFY diver’s watches. 

While the current iteration remains faithful to its original 600m water-resistant rating and design, with vivid orange played off against a stark black dial, the Revival provides major improvements on the moment within. The original DEFY A3648 is powered by the caliber 2552PC; however, the new DEFY Revival A3648 features Zenith’s in-house caliber 670, which is visible in all its intricate glory through an exhibition sapphire crystal caseback.  

Yet another new reference to be added to the DEFY range of diving watches, the DEFY Extreme Diver pays homage to the importance of precision in extreme conditions. Crafted to the highest of specifications, its intricate design takes into account how the presence of ice, water, and mist can present a hindrance to forward movement. 

These environmental impediments fuel the timepiece’s depth-defying performance; its angular case is crafted in a highly corrosion-resistant titanium, equipped with a helium escape valve for saturation diving, whilst a unidirectional rotating bezel imbued with SuperLumiNova and marked with grooved edges allows for easier grip, handling, and reading. Equipped with Zenith’s El Primero 3620 SC automatic movement, this sporty timepiece boasts 60 hours of power reserve. 

View Zenith’s Watches and Wonders 2024 launches and highlights below:

IWC’s new additions to the Portugieser series

It’s a special occasion for IWC Schaffhausen at this year’s Watches and Wonders event as the brand announced its first secular perpetual calendar. Building on the watchmaker’s expertise, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar promises a brush with eternity with the claim of remaining accurate for 45 million years.

It is engineered to recognise the length of each month and adds a leap day every four years while cleverly navigating the Gregorian calendar’s complex exception rules. The timepiece also comes with a double moon phase display that is accurate enough to only deviate by one day in 45 million years.

The sophisticated design defines elegance with its intricate platinum case, Santoni black alligator leather strap, a glass dial, and double box-glass sapphire crystals. With a highly efficient winding system, it also offers a power reserve of seven days (168 hours).

The brand has also introduced tasteful models of the re-engineered Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 in four new versions. The stunning timepieces with 18k armour gold cases have an Obsidian or Silver Moon dial whereas the white gold cases come in Dune and Horizon Blue dials.

In an elegantly slender case, they are combined with double box-glass sapphire crystals on the front and the back. The dials shine with gold-plated hands and gold appliques along with alligator leather straps.

Additionally, the Swiss brand also adds new life to the Portugieser chronograph with three dials in Horizon Blue, Obsidian, and Dune shades. The Horizon blue dial is paired with an 18-carat white gold whereas the Obsidian dial stands out with its 8-carat 5N gold case. The third addition is the Dune coloured dial with a stainless steel case.

View IWC’s Watches and Wonders 2024 launches and highlights here:

Montblanc explores new depths with Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810

After releasing the Montblanc Iced Sea Collection in 2022, the brand pushes its boundaries to new heights — or rather, depths — with Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810. In a nod to the height of Mont Blanc (the mountain), the new timepiece is engineered to endure extreme conditions under the sea level to a depth of 4,810 metres.

Montblanc’s new timepiece in the Zero Oxygen series sets a new milestone for water resistance. (Image: Montblanc)

It’s an addition to the brand’s series of “Zero Oxygen” timepieces that promise superior performance even in harsh environments. Eliminating oxygen from the case prevents fogging and oxidisation, maintaining the timepiece’s precision even under erratic temperatures.

The Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810 watch features a stunning 3D engraving on the back. (Image: Montblanc)

Enclosed within a 43mm strong titanium case, the wondrous Blue sfumato glacier pattern dial draws inspiration from the luminous Mer de Glace glacier. A 3D engraving with the pattern of the glacier from an ocean view graces the back. The result is an alluring design element with a contrast of colours and textures combining a metallic and matte shine. Offering up to 120 hours of power reserve, the Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810 places itself strongly on the radar of every adventure junkie demanding precision and elegance in a timepiece.

View Montblanc’s Watches and Wonders 2024 launches and highlights here:

Vacheron Constantin introduces the world’s most complicated watch

Vacheron Constantin made an awe-inspiring contribution to the Geneva event by introducing the world’s most complicated watch. The remarkable Les Cabinotiers The Berkley Grand Complication boasts an astonishing 63 complications, surpassing the brand’s previous record set in 2015 by featuring as many as 57 complications.

Making greater strides this time, the Swiss brand’s new pocket watch features the world’s first Chinese perpetual calendar. It offers to display the date of the Lunar New Year for the next 20 years on a disk placed at the bottom of the front dial. Scoring more on the design front, it also displays the Chinese Zodiac animal for the current year below the moon phases. Introducing new astronomical elements at the back, it also features a sky chart which showcases constellations appearing in real-time as observed from Shanghai.

Crafted in an arresting 18k white gold case, with a dial on either side, it weighs just under a kilogram (960 grams). It comes with a thick casing of 50.55 millimetres and the diameter of the pocket watch is 98mm (about the length of the long edge of a credit card). Incorporating the three-axis tourbillon, the timepiece offers unique precision.

View Vacheron Constantin’s Watches and Wonders 2024 launches and highlights here:

Parmigiani Fleurier’s Toric collection makes a grand return

Parmigiani Fleurier unveils a revival of its iconic Toric collection. Introducing two new models, the Toric Petite Seconde 40mm and the Toric Chronographe Rattrapante 42mm, the revamped collection promises sartorial splendour that echoes the brand’s essence.

Embracing minimalism and refinement, the new collection comes with grained gold dials. With gold delta-shaped hands set in a slim rose gold or platinum case, the revamped Toric collection makes the case for being great dress watches. Other key highlights also include its anti-reflective sapphire crystals encrusted on the front and back, and its promise of providing water resistance up to 50 metres.

The Toric Petite Seconde 40mm is available in two iterations – with a sandy gold dial and an almond-green gold dial. As for the Toric Chronographe Rattrapante, it comes with a warm coffee-coloured dial and has three sub-dials. Both models are a part of a limited edition of 30 pieces.

The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor comes with an impressive Gold Sienna dial. (Image: Parmigiani Fleurier)

The brand also debuted a dateless dial design of the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor. The timepiece comes with a stainless steel build and captures the maison’s elegant aesthetic in a Golden Siena dial. The clean dial without a date window provides serenity and highlights the dial plate’s guilloché pattern. Further, its transparent caseback also offers a view of the brand’s superior technical prowess.

View Parmigiani Fleurier’s Watches and Wonders 2024 launches and highlights here:

Hublot fuses high-tech materials with horological artistry

Hublot has rolled out a collection that seamlessly blends the boundaries of innovation, artistry, and technical mastery. Each piece, a vivid testament to Hublot’s philosophy of “The Art of Fusion,” encapsulates the brand’s relentless pursuit of breaking new ground. From the ethereal transparency of sapphire cases to the charismatic allure of Magic Gold, the brand’s offerings push the envelope of material engineering and watchmaking prowess. Its commitment to excellence shines through in the detailed craftsmanship, advanced materials, and pioneering designs that define this year’s lineup.

The Big Bang Integrated Time Only is back with a solid dial and integrated bracelet, in a new 38-mm version. (Image: Hublot)

The introductions of groundbreaking materials like vibrant orange ceramic and the utilisation of intricate movements underscore Hublot’s position at the forefront of watchmaking innovation. This year, Hublot has not just presented watches; it has showcased a future where tradition and avant-garde design converge, reaffirming its status as a luminary in the luxury watch industry. Some of the standout watches from their lineup would include the Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic, Big Bang Sang Bleu Sapphire, the Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire, and the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System.

In a brilliant display of innovation, the Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic reveals Hublot’s unparalleled ability to conquer the challenges of ceramics in watchmaking. This edition, limited to 250 pieces, captivates with its vibrant orange ceramic case, a hue never before seen in ceramic watches, achieved through Hublot’s pioneering material engineering. The 42mm case houses the self-winding chronograph flyback movement, visible through the transparent case back.

This movement offers functionality that includes hours, minutes, seconds, date, and flyback chronograph, all set beneath a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment. The watch is completed with a structured lined rubber strap in matching orange, providing comfort and durability alongside its bold aesthetic. Resistant to water up to 100 metres, this timepiece is more of a bold statement than it is a watch.

Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu is a standout piece due to its sapphire crystal case. (Image: Hublot)

The Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu Sapphire emerges as a dazzling fusion of art and horology, born from the collaboration between Hublot and renowned tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi. This limited edition, with only 100 pieces available, features a 42mm polished sapphire crystal case that encapsulates the essence of transparency and geometric beauty. Powered by the MHUB4700 self-winding skeleton chronograph movement, the watch is a masterpiece of technical achievement and aesthetic design. The hexagonal bezel, a Sang Bleu signature, complements the geometric lines that traverse the case and dial, creating a visual language that speaks to both time and eternity. White transparent smooth rubber straps with a titanium deployant buckle clasp ensure the watch comfortably secures on the wrist.

The MP-11 makes its debut in a brand new colour: a radiant and translucent water blue. (Image: Hublot)

Hublot’s Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire is a striking example of the brand’s mastery over innovative materials and watchmaking techniques. Encased in polished water blue sapphire crystal, this limited edition of just 50 pieces showcases the beauty of transparency combined with cutting-edge design. At the heart of this piece lies a manual-winding skeleton power reserve movement, featuring seven series-coupled barrels that provide an unprecedented two-week power reserve.

A new colour is added to Hublot’s palette of sapphire tones, and a major first for this Manufacture Piece. (Image: Hublot)

This technical feat is elegantly displayed through the sapphire crystal case, offering a visual spectacle of the movement’s intricacies. The 45mm case, boasting a 14.4mm thickness, is perfectly complemented by a water blue transparent lined structured rubber strap, enhancing the watch’s ethereal aesthetic. Its luminescent hands and hour markers ensure legibility, merging functionality with the watch’s mesmerising design. The Blue Sapphire is even water-resistant up to 30 metres.

The MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System showcases the brand’s love for avant-garde designs fused with technical prowess. Limited to just 50 pieces, this watch features a unique architecture that includes no traditional dial, hands, or oscillating weight. Instead, it boasts a roller display, a circular power reserve, and an inclined tourbillon, all powered by automatic winding through two linear weights. The case, crafted from high-tech materials, and the sapphire crystal allows for a full view of the intricate movement, creating a mesmerising spectacle on the wrist. The MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System is a masterpiece of form and function, representing a bold step forward in watchmaking.

View Hublot’s Watches and Wonders 2024 launches and highlights below:

Cartier blends innovation with a dash of magic

Cartier goes beyond the art of fundamental timekeeping to enter the dimension of enchantment. Its mesmerising collection speaks to the soul and awakens the imagination via a symphony of shapes and craftsmanship. At the centre of Cartier’s philosophy is the concept of metamorphosis — where simple components are transformed into magnificent timepieces that go beyond functionality to become objets d’art.

Cartier drops new additions to a total of five collections, infusing its transformative power into classics. 

The Cartier Privé collection is an annual celebration for horology enthusiasts, featuring a contemporary envisioning of Cartier’s most prestigious timepieces. In its eighth edition, the Tortue, a classic symbol of Cartier’s watchmaking tradition, is highlighted. The monopoussoir chronograph complication is at the heart of this year’s reveal, reflecting Cartier’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of watchmaking innovation. 

The Tortue, introduced in 1912, represents Cartier’s creative approach to design, flawlessly blending curves and taut lines. The Tortue’s latest incarnation preserves its original charm while accepting slight modifications. Horns stretched along the strap and a smaller profile give the clock a renewed sense of elegance and lightness, giving respect to its rich history. The redesigned Tortue’s dial has apple-shaped hands and a painstakingly carved rail track, which improves legibility and emphasises the watch’s unique design. 

The new hours/minutes versions are limited and numbered to 200 pieces, while the platinum-set version to 50 pieces.

The monopoussoir chronograph, first presented in 1928, gets a modern makeover with subtle accents like blued-steel hands and triangular patterns. The chronograph function is built into a single push-button fitted into the crown, giving the timepiece an opulent yet simple appearance. The Cartier Privé collection’s limited edition pieces demonstrate the Maison’s ongoing dedication to excellence and innovation. With its chromatic harmony of platinum and cabochon ruby accents, the Tortue exudes elegance, inviting discerning collectors to embark on a trip through Cartier’s rich horological history.

Cartier’s Animal Jewellery Watches prove the brand’s continuing interest in the untamed charm of nature’s creatures. Since 1914, when the panther first appeared on a watch case, Cartier’s menagerie has charmed fans with its captivating presence. This year, the attention is on an intriguing chimaera created by the mystical union of a zebra and a crocodile. This remarkable creature serves as the inspiration for a completely paved design that combines the geometric attraction of stripes with the organic delicacy of its shape. Each stripe is diligently lacquered by hand, giving the timepiece a sense of dynamic movement and energy.

The silhouette of this mythical creature softly encircles a diamond-shaped dial, as if to embrace it in a delightful dance of nature and artistry. The Maison’s expertise is evident in the delicate etching around each coloured stone. The case, dial, and ardillon belt are set with tsavorite garnets and brilliant-cut diamonds, bringing a stunning touch of luxury to the watch. Black lacquer accents enhance the striking colour contrast, while a tsavorite garnet adorns the crown in exquisite detail. To complement the excellent design, the watch comes with two replaceable straps, one in black calfskin and the other in navy blue alligator leather, giving the wearer versatility and luxury.

The Reflection de Cartier watch invites adventurers to cross the mirror’s threshold. Following in the footsteps of its predecessors, the Clash [Un]limited and Coussin watches, this timepiece continues Cartier’s magical journey of enchantment, captivating with its allure of mystery and interest. At the core of the Reflection de Cartier watch is a commitment to capturing the enigmatic nature of time via bold and inventive designs. This watch is the result of Cartier’s painstaking research of shapes, and it is a harmonious union of the knowledge of both the watchmakers and jewellers.

watches and wonders 2024 highlights and launches - Cartier
Cartier Reflection de Cartier Watch in Peacock motif. (Image: Cartier)

The open bracelet’s unique construction combines the creativity of openwork with polished shiny gold. Elongated lines and defined edges create tension, directing the attention to the delicate dial, where time appears to dance in reverse, defying the traditional flow of minutes and hours. The dial is adorned with a gem-like bevelled glass, emphasising the watch’s refinement and precision. This unique structure gives birth to a white gold clock that explores the interplay of materials with a stunning combination of snow setting and inverted setting. The result is a watch that not only shines with brilliance but also entices with its visual appeal.

The Santos de Cartier collection honours aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont’s bold legacy, expressing the spirit of adventure and ingenuity that characterised his pioneering endeavours. These timepieces, embodying the essence of freedom and style, soar above traditional timekeeping, urging users to conquer the skies and defy gravity. Cartier, remaining true to Santos-Dumont’s uniqueness and innovation, unveils two newly envisioned versions of this classic timepiece, each questioning our perception of time in its own unique way. First, the exquisite Santos-Dumont Rewind watch incorporates a unique method of timekeeping, whereas the bold Santos de Cartier Dual watch allows wearers to easily track two separate time zones at the same time.

Crafted with tapered, ergonomic lines that mimic the synergy between the bracelet and case, this steel version of the watch drips beauty through rigorous attention to detail. The sword-shaped hands in rhodium finish are coated with luminescent material, ensuring readability even in low-light circumstances, and the seven-sided faceted crown adds refinement. The satin-finish anthracite grey sunray-brushed dial includes a second-time zone display with an additional hour hand in a counter, as well as a day/night indicator for convenience. The Santos de Cartier bracelet is extremely practical, available in both steel and leather forms, and all versions are convertible owing to the unique QuickSwitch technology. The unique SmartLink size adjustment technology allows the metal bracelet to be adjusted to the nearest link without the use of tools, improving its adaptability even more.

The Santos-Dumont Rewind watch is a radical departure from standard timekeeping, attempting to shift the course of horological innovation both technically and aesthetically. At the heart of this limited edition, masterpiece is a carnelian dial with dramatic and subtle hues that highlight its platinum uniqueness. The arrangement of Roman numerals on the dial defies convention, daring to deconstruct tradition and rethink the concept of time itself.

Inspired by Santos-Dumont’s concept that anything is possible, Cartier introduces a unique feature: Apple-shaped hands powered by a mechanical movement with reversed manual winding, calibre 230 MC. Rather than moving forward as typical watch hands do, these hands sweep smoothly backwards, breaking standard timekeeping assumptions. Despite its avant-garde capabilities, the Santos-Dumont Rewind watch retains the exquisite look of the original 1904 model, paying tribute to Santos-Dumont’s pioneering spirit. Limited to just 200 numbered pieces, each Santos-Dumont Rewind watch is a rare and coveted masterpiece, destined to become a cherished collector’s item.

View Cartier’s Watches and Wonders 2024 launches and highlights below:

Sustainability and sporty features dominate Chopard’s line-up

Chopard spotlights an enchanting ensemble of timepieces at Watches and Wonders 2024, each one reflecting the epitome of craftsmanship in the art of watchmaking and aesthetic brilliance. Expressed with an unwavering commitment to excellence, the latest Chopard creations delight with their sophisticated, oftentimes innovative designs, fine details, and profound brilliance.

A symphony in green and gold, the L.U.C XPS Forest Green is an ode to sustainable luxury, set in lucent steel with 80% recycled content. Now, the svelte profile of the watch is driven by the new in-house L.U.C Calibre 96.12-L, a fresh statement of slimness and efficiency. The dark green sector dial of the watch, with Chopard’s famous Dauphine hands, is an eternally classic piece. This small seconds COSC-certified chronometer is a testament to Chopard’s dedication to precision and a claim in the pursuit of environmental consciousness.

The Happy Sport collection enjoys the mark of a limited edition to celebrate the brand’s playful spirit. What is most appealing about this special 250-piece edition is the diamond bezel, while the silver-toned dial is adorned with dancing diamonds and aquamarine. The 33mm model, made of Lucent Steel and housing the Chopard 09.01-C self-winding movement, is further witness to the Maison’s flair for innovative high jewellery integration in the fine art of watchmaking.

The new peaks of glorious, sporty aesthetic and chronography precision are scaled with the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono. The case of this model is constructed from high-performance, ultra-light Grade 5 titanium that has been engineered for comfort. All indications are easily visible against its dial, which is Rhône Blue in colour and textured like an eagle’s iris. Inside ticks a high-frequency Chopard 03.05-C movement for the most accurate timekeeping. Available exclusively in Chopard boutiques, this watch is proof of the brand’s search for the highest level of excellence in each detail.

watches and wonders 2024 highlights and launches - Chopard
The Alpine Eagle 41 XP Frozen Summit is covered in a stunning array of diamonds. (Image: Chopard)

The model of the original Alpine Eagle 41 XP Frozen Summit is a combination of Chopard watchmaking with jewellery expertise, as honoured by the Poinçon de Genève. Everything sparkles in this 41mm-diametre case: from the dial to the bezel, crown, and the integrated bracelet of 18k white gold, with impeccably set diamonds. The technical expertise, standing uncompromisingly as a guarantor to this creation, is equipped with an ultra-thin L.U.C 96.41-L automatic calibre movement through a micro-rotor. It has the highest level of power reserve, which stands at an impressive 65 hours.

View Chopard’s Watches and Wonders 2024 launches and highlights here:

TAG Heuer spotlights precision and elegance

TAG Heuer embraces its penchant for craftsmanship with a collection of watches that perfectly blends precise engineering with stylish designs. This new range demonstrates the couturier’s dedication to advancing the art of watchmaking by combining cutting-edge technology with a classic look, resulting in watches that are both highly functional and visually stunning.

The first watch to look out for is the Carrera Chronograph Skipper. The watch pays tribute to TAG Heuer’s seafaring heritage with its unique blue dial and regatta countdown timers in green, orange, and teal blue, nodding to its 1968 predecessor. Made with 18k 5N rose gold and driven by the Heuer 02 Skipper calibre, it boasts an 80-hour power reserve. Its sea-inspired design, complete with a blue textile strap, emphasises the brand’s focus on form and function. The Skipper’s deep connection to the ocean is highlighted by its history with Abercrombie & Fitch in the 1940s and its significant role in the 1967 America’s Cup win.

Expanding the Carrera line, the brand introduces the Carrera Chronograph with a bi-compax panda design and a steel bracelet. It embodies the innovative spirit of TAG Heuer, blending the Carrera’s rich heritage with avant-garde aesthetics. The watch features a silver sunray-brushed dial, black “azuré” subdials, and a new connected watch face option, integrating tradition with digital advancement. Powered by the Heuer 02 movement, it guarantees an 80-hour power reserve.

The Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph is a highlight of TAG Heuer’s innovation, offering a split-seconds function with the Calibre TH81-00. Available in red and blue, it sets new standards for precision and looks. Featuring a sapphire crystal dial and a titanium case, it’s a durable yet light addition to the Monaco line, celebrating TAG Heuer’s long history with chronographs. Its design honours the brand’s racing roots and the disruptive original Monaco, appealing to collectors and fans alike.

The new Carrera Day Date models feature enchanting copper dials, radiant Mother-of-Pearl, and diamond accents. (Image credit: TAG Heuer)

Finally, the Carrera Date models radiate subtle elegance, available in designs that display their meticulousness and flair for luxury. These 36mm watches, featuring 18K 5N rose gold, mother-of-pearl, and diamonds, strike an ideal harmony between classic elegance and contemporary style. The use of precious materials and the Calibre 7 movement, with a 56-hour power reserve, makes the Carrera Date a symbol of sophisticated femininity.

View TAG Heuer’s Watches and Wonders 2024 launches and highlights here:

Chanel draws upon its legacy in timekeeping

Chanel once again draws upon its illustrious Rue Cambon heritage, presenting a collection that seamlessly weaves the essence of haute couture into the art of watchmaking. This year’s novelties are not just timepieces; they are embodiments of Chanel’s pivotal role in women’s fashion and its enduring design pillars. From the iconic little black dress to the timeless Chanel No. 5 perfume, these elements find their way into a line-up that includes a whimsical pin cushion watch ring, a gem-set bangle evoking a spool of thread, and a J12 watch adorned with scissor-shaped hands.

The J12 stands as a testament to Chanel’s design ethos, marrying functionality with the brand’s couture spirit. This classic 33mm white ceramic piece, available with and without diamonds, features a dial reminiscent of pattern cutting or toile, with hands shaped like scissors and needles, and a tape measure minutes track. At its heart lies the Maison’s in-house Calibre 12.2, ensuring precision beneath its creative facade. This piece, limited in quantity, celebrates the craftsmanship and innovative spirit that have defined Chanel from its inception.

The iconic Chanel tweed jacket pattern finds its spot on the BOY·FRIEND Couture watch. (Image: Chanel)

The brand further redefines haute horology by transforming the BOY·FRIEND watch into a wearable piece of art. Inspired by Chanel’s iconic tweed, the watch is set with 8 diamonds to look like buttons and accentuated with a silver trim. Its bezel is decorated with an 18k gold chain. The piece combines traditional textile craftsmanship with horological art, creating a watch that’s as much a statement piece as it is a timekeeper.

Jaeger-LeCoultre expands its Duomètre series

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s presentation at Watches & Wonders 2024 underscores its esteemed heritage and ongoing innovation in the realm of watchmaking. This year, the venerable Maison unveils timepieces that blend technical mastery with aesthetic grace, featuring sophisticated updates and new interpretations across its celebrated collections. Here’s a closer look at the remarkable novelties from Jaeger-LeCoultre.

The refreshed Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar showcases a modernised case and dial alongside the enhanced Calibre 868, extending the power reserve to 70 hours. A new pink gold model with a midnight blue gradient dial stands out, reflecting the brand’s philosophy of uniting mechanical excellence with timeless beauty. The intricate perpetual calendar mechanism automatically adjusts for months of varying lengths and leap years, offering unparalleled precision.

watches and wonders 2024 highlights and launches - Jaeger-LeCoultre
The Duometre Quantieme Lunaire (Moon Phase). (Image: Jaeger-LeCoultre)

The Duomètre Quantième Lunaire emerges in steel, featuring a deep blue dial that exudes contemporary elegance. This model is the first to incorporate the revolutionary Duomètre concept in steel, offering a new level of timekeeping precision. The seconde foudroyante hand and the dual-power reserve system exemplify Jaeger-LeCoultre’s commitment to combining innovative technology with refined aesthetics.

The Duomètre Héliotourbillon Perpetual astonishes with its three-axis tourbillon, a new manual Calibre 388, and a grand date display. This piece merges the Duomètre’s precision with a perpetual calendar, set in an elegantly complex case. The Héliotourbillon, with its ‘spinning top’ kinematic effect, sets a new standard in watchmaking innovation, limited to an exclusive 20 pieces.

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Introducing an entirely new calibre, the Duomètre Chronographe Moon harmonises a complex chronograph with a moon phase display, ensuring precision with its patented Duomètre mechanism. This timepiece is an eloquent testament to the brand’s endless creativity, blending the high precision of a chronograph with the enchantment of celestial mechanics, presented in pink gold or platinum.

View Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Watches and Wonders 2024 launches and highlights below:

Bell & Ross plays with contemporary aesthetics

Bell & Ross debuts a magnificent collection of five new novelties at Watches & Wonders 2024 in Geneva, showing off its passion for military heritage, inventive design, and eternal values.

Bell & Ross’ BR 05 Black Ceramic line combines excellent technical properties with enticing looks. Ceramic, recognised for its scratch resistance and durability, debuts in the urban collection alongside the brand’s distinctive black hue. This valued series now includes three models, each representing the brand’s DNA and design approach. The use of ceramic in these clocks ensures longevity while also providing a streamlined look reminiscent of aviation cockpits. The material, which is entirely scratch-proof and lighter than steel, is both durable and comfortable to wear, regulating body temperature as well as hypoallergenic.

As a complement to its technical competence, ceramic gives the BR 05 Black Ceramic watches a fascinating aesthetic appeal, with a consistent sheen that is unaffected by scratches. The matte ceramic skeleton version improves readability with glowing green indices while preserving a stealthy appearance in both the case and the bracelet. All of the BR 05 Black Ceramic watches are equipped with automatic mechanical movements and sapphire crystal backs. The black ruthenium finishes of the BR-CAL.321 and BR-CAL.322 calibres, which have an amazing 54-hour power reserve, reinforce these timepieces as instrument watches appropriate for any situation or occasion. The collection features three distinct models — BR 05 Black Ceramic, BR 05 Skeleton Black Ceramic, and BR 05 Skeleton Black Lum Ceramic. The first two of these models join the brand’s permanent collections, while the third is a limited edition of 500 pieces.

The BR 03 Cyber Ceramic watch is a significant leap into the immediate future of current watchmaking design. This chronograph, made of matte black ceramic, shows the brand’s commitment to pushing the limits of innovation and style. It draws inspiration from the renowned BR 03 line and blends it with the graphic and futuristic codes of the Cyber collection. Led by co-founder and Creative Director Bruno Belamich, the company took a faceted 3D design approach to rethink the traditional watchmaking form.

The final result is a stunning timepiece that defies convention and embraces the idea of stealth invisibility. The dial and major components of the mechanical self-winding movement, the BR-CAL.383 calibre, are open-worked and elegantly skeletonised. The matte black ceramic casing adds to the watch’s aggressiveness, resulting in a juxtaposition of discretion and spectacle. The BR 03 Cyber Ceramic is a limited-edition watch with only 500 pieces in creation. 

The BR 03-92 Diver Black & Green Bronze is a smart blend of neo-retro aesthetics and utilitarian design. This new version of the legendary BR 03 diver has a striking bronze case and a vibrant green dial, expressing a naturalist dimension that is both expressive and beautiful. The green dial is enhanced by the bronze case’s coordinating reflections, which naturally lean towards red. The option of a black rubber strap or synthetic canvas with Velcro closing increases the timepiece’s adaptability.

The case’s complicated four-part screw arrangement, as well as the solid bronze unidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute graduation, indicate great attention to detail. The case’s alloy, CuSn8, has a tone reminiscent of vintage sailing boat fittings while still demonstrating contemporary features valued by designers and architects. Owning a bronze watch means accepting its changing appearance as it develops a distinctive patina over time. The BR 03-92 Diver Black & Green Bronze watch is limited to 999 pieces and has a 300-metre waterproof rating. It features a mechanical self-winding BR-CAL.302 movement with a power reserve of 54 hours, ensuring precision and efficiency. With the iconic “rounded square, four-screw” shape and bronze construction, this exquisite diver captures the essence of Bell & Ross’ signature style while providing a timeless appeal.

Bell & Ross’ BR-X5 Black Titanium watch boasts a multi-component case architecture that seamlessly blends performance and design, providing both strength and lightness. The 41mm titanium case, hollowed out for weight reduction and comfort, is built around a waterproof container that protects the movement within. The case has a characteristic grey hue and an anti-reflective matte surface produced using micro sandblasting.   

The dial has clear and precise indicators, a big date aperture at three o’clock, and a circular power reserve indicator at nine o’clock. The watch is powered by the BR-CAL.323 self-winding mechanical movement, which has a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and a power reserve of 70 hours. This COSC-certified chronometer movement includes a five-year guarantee and rapid date correction capability.

The BR 05 Chrono Grey Steel & Gold redefines horological elegance with a dramatic mix of ruthenium and rose gold in a 42mm case, complemented with the subtlety of a chronograph. The steel bracelet’s integration into the case gives a contemporary touch, reflecting the look of 1970s watches while preserving a current and visually appealing aesthetic.

The rose gold and steel band blends effortlessly with the case, forming a cohesive unit. Furthermore, a black rubber strap may be readily replaced to enhance the watch’s athletic appearance. The BR-CAL.326 self-winding mechanical movement, rebuilt by Bell & Ross watchmakers for reliability and efficiency, powers the BR 05 Chrono Grey Steel & Gold. With a power reserve of 60 hours and a frequency of 28,800 movements per hour, this sturdy calibre ensures stability and precision in all aspects of modern life. The delicately skeletonised rotor, visible through the glass case back, is characteristic of Bell & Ross’s self-winding movements.

View Bell & Ross’ Watches and Wonders 2024 highlights and launches below:

Tudor takes a bold journey of innovation and elegance

Tudor introduces the newest version of the Black Bay, which includes evolved design components and a “T-fit” clasp that has been METAS Master Chronometer certified. This iconic Tudor design features a monochromatic style with an inky black dial and rhodium-plated hour markings and hands. The 41mm stainless steel case, 60-minute unidirectional black bezel, and softly domed matte radial-brushed black dial maintain the watch’s original Black Bay proportions. It is driven by the COSC-certified Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U, which features a silicon hairspring and a power reserve of 70 hours. 

The Black Bay comes with either a stainless steel bracelet or a rubber strap, both of which feature the Tudor “T-fit” fast adjustment clasp. Master Chronometer accreditation ensures precision and resistance to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss, as well as a 200-metre (660-foot) waterproof rating and a five-year transferable guarantee.

Tudor’s all-new Black Bay 58 GMT, now Master Chronometer certified, features a 39mm diameter case and a bidirectional bezel with warm hues reminiscent of the golden age of air travel. This model, which evokes an age of glamorous jet-setting, features TUDOR’s new mid-size GMT Manufacture Calibre with burgundy, black, and gold accents on the bezel. The watch preserves the original Black Bay 58 dimensions, but in GMT format, with a stainless steel case, 24-hour bidirectional black and burgundy bezel, and a softly domed matt black display with gilt accents. Powered by the GMT Manufacture Calibre MT5450-U, it is COSC-certified and features a silicon hairspring and a 65-hour power reserve.

Tudor’s “T-fit” fast adjustment clasp is available on either a rubber strap or a stainless steel 3-link “rivet-style” bracelet. Master Chronometer accreditation ensures precision and resistance to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss, as well as a 200-metre (660-foot) waterproof rating and a five-year transferable guarantee.

Tudor offers the Black Bay 58 18K, a striking new version of its famous model made of 18k yellow gold. This clock commemorates 1958, the year Tudor introduced its first divers’ watch that was waterproof up to 200 metres. It has a 39mm satin-finished case in 18k yellow gold with an open case back, a matching 3-link bracelet, and TUDOR’s “T-fit” clasp for easy length adjustment. The watch has a gently curved matt “golden green” dial with attached hour markers and “Snowflake” hands in 18k yellow gold. The Black Bay 58 18K, powered by the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 and COSC-certified, has a silicon hairspring and a 70-hour power reserve. It is sturdy, precise, and elegant.

Tudor introduces the new Clair de Rose collection, which features the brand’s trademark blue dials in stainless steel with mechanical movements. This classic collection pays homage to moonlight and the brand’s iconic rose insignia, giving timeless elegance in three sizes: 26mm, 30mm and 34mm. The watches have satin-brushed and polished stainless steel casings with intricate relief embellishments on the dials, which are set with Roman numerals or diamonds. The Clair de Rose watches include a stainless steel “beads of rice” band and a self-winding Calibre T601 or T201 movement with a power reserve of 38 hours. These clocks combine delicacy and assertiveness, reflecting Tudor’s rich legacy and artistic principles.

The daring Black Bay Chrono “Pink” embodies the bold character of its ambassadors. The 41mm stainless steel case has a fixed bezel and a black anodised aluminium insert. The striking pink dial contrasts with circular sub-counters and unique “Snowflake” hands. Powered by the COSC-certified Manufacture Chronograph Calibre MT5813, with a 70-hour power reserve, silicon balance spring, and column wheel construction. Tudor’s “T-fit” fast adjustment clasp is featured on the 5-link stainless steel bracelet. This high-performance movement, created in conjunction with Breitling, promises dependability and remarkable precision.

View Tudor’s Watches and Wonders 2024 highlights and launches here:

Panerai explores its passion for sports and sailing

Given Panerai‘s emphasis on innovation and technology, its long-standing relationship with top sailing team Luna Rossa Pirelli, is a natural fit. In honour of this collaboration, Panerai has released a collection of four limited-edition Luna Rossa Submersible watches that highlight the brand’s expertise in revolutionary material science.

The PAM01507 Submersible GMT Luna Rossa Titanio
The PAM01507 Submersible GMT Luna Rossa Titanio (Image: Panerai)

The PAM01507 Submersible GMT Luna Rossa Titanio is an exceptional piece from Panerai’s collection. Crafted from Grade 5 titanium, this 42mm timepiece encompasses both robustness and lightness, reflecting the Luna Rossa boat’s inventive character. It introduces the groundbreaking Super-LumiNova X2 technology, which increases luminosity by 10 percent to improve visibility even in the darkest depths.

With a water resistance of 500 metres and a three-day power reserve from the P.900/GMT movement, this watch is ready for any adventure. It will be only available from September 2024 at Panerai boutiques.

Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa PAM01565
Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa PAM01565 (Image: Panerai)

The Submersible Luna Rossa PAM01562 is available exclusively online from Panerai. This beautiful timepiece has a mesmerising blue sun-brushed gradient dial and a 42mm stainless steel case. The unidirectional spinning steel bezel, decorated with a matte black ceramic disc, provides a touch of elegance. The watch is powered by the P.900 automatic mechanical movement and includes immersion time and stop-second functions in addition to the standard timekeeping and date display. The ensemble is completed by a bi-material rubber and grey-hued textile strap with the trademark Luna Rossa red stripe.

Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramitech PAM01543 & PAM01466
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramitech PAM01543 (Image: Panerai)

Panerai has unveiled a dynamic pair of Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa watches made from Ti-Ceramitech, a new titanium alloy improved with Electrolytic Plasma Oxidation. This cutting-edge process not only gives the material a distinct blue hue, but it also increases its durability, making it 10 times stronger than conventional ceramic while being highly resistant to pressure and thermal stress.

The PAM01543 has a stunning sun-brushed blue dial that sets it apart from its counterpart, the PAM01466, which has a matte white-grained face. Beginning in July, the PAM01466 will be widely available through Panerai and its authorised distributors, while the blue-dial edition will be limited to retail boutiques.

Watches & wonders 2024
Panerai Submersible Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa Experience Edition PAM01405 (Image: Panerai)

The PAM01405 Submersible Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa Experience Edition is an impressive timepiece with a large 45mm case diameter. Its intricate design is proudly displayed through an open-worked dial, showing the tourbillon’s complexity. With a sleek matte-black finish, the CarbotechTM casing and bezel add to the device’s sporty and futuristic appearance. With a four-day power reserve and water resistance of up to 300 metres, this watch is ideal for both adventure and sophistication. The hand-wound mechanical movement, the P.2015/T calibre, includes a Glucydur balance wheel and an Incabloc anti-shock device for maximum performance.

The PAM01405 is limited to only 20 pieces and will be released in July.

View Panerai’s Watches and Wonders 2024 highlights and launches here:

Grand Seiko spotlights the beauty of nature 

Spotlighting the majesty and serenity of nature, Grand Seiko’s showing at Watches and Wonders 2024 is a masterclass in understated elegance, marrying high horology with stunning precision courtesy of mechanical excellence. From breathtaking textures to eye-catching colours, the new references pay homage to Japanese landscapes and the beautiful tranquillity of gently shifting seasons.

The 2024 Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon SLGT005 is available in a limited edition run of only 20 pieces. (Image: Grand Seiko)

Among Grand Seiko’s releases for the season: The light counterpart to the brand’s first mechanical complication, the Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon which was first released in 2022. Inspired by the beauty of daybreak, the new Kodo, which now joins the Grand Seiko Masterpiece family, will be available in December 2024, with a limited 20 pieces available worldwide. 

With the first Kodo taking on darker aesthetic hues, expressing the beauty of twilight through light and shadow, the new Kodo seeks to highlight the subdued beauty of the early morning sky. The leather strap, offered in a specially-developed new hue, is treated in the same traditional method once used to imbue Samurai armour with strength; additionally, for the first time ever, pale blue sapphires were used as jewels, recalling a beautiful dawn. 

The inner case is Platinum 950; the outer, Brilliant Hard Titanium, which is an alloy that boasts twice the hardness of stainless steel for a scratch-resistant finish. Within the open-work design of the case lies the hand-finished Calibre 9ST1 movement, which is composed of a constant-force mechanism and a tourbillon, married together onto a single axis. Whilst the inner tourbillon carriage rotates steadily at exactly eight beats per second, the outer constant-force carriage follows in exact one-second intervals, resulting in a pleasing rhythm that denotes the heartbeat of the piece. Comprising approximately 340 components with over a 100 of these packed into its ‘heart’, the movement is one of stability and accuracy, reflecting the quality that Grand Seiko has become synonymous with. 

The Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC275 pays homage to the vast Hotaka mountain range, where all Grand Seiko Spring Drive creations are produced. (Image: Grand Seiko)

Yet another addition to Grand Seiko’s lineup at Watches and Wonders 2024 is the Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC275, a vivid limited-edition masterpiece that finds its home in the brand’s sports collection. The stunning chronograph features a high-intensity titanium case, which protects within its core a vivid red dial bearing the brand’s iconic ‘Lion’s Mane’ pattern. Released to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the Caliber 9R Spring Drive movement, the timepiece pays homage to the vast Hotaka mountain range of Central Japan’s Shinshu region, where all Grand Seiko Spring Drive creations are produced.  

The stunning timepiece does more than shine; it is water-resistant to 200 metres, providing accuracy and performance in all sporting situations. Additionally, the hour, minute, and GMT markers are treated to allow for heightened legibility in dark conditions, as are the numbers on the bezel. Both case and bracelet are produced of high-intensity titanium – lighter, and yet brighter than stainless steel. The timepiece is powered by the Calibre 9R96 movement, which is adorned with an 18k gold Grand Seiko lion to denote its improved level of precision. The Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC275 will be available from July 2024, with only 700 pieces available. 

Grand Seiko’s new addition to their Evolution 9 collection pays homage to the beauty of the Iwai River in Iwate Prefecture. (Image: Grand Seiko)

Yet another homage to the beauty of nature, Grand Seiko added another reference to their Evolution 9 collection with the SLGH021 “Genbi Valley” timepiece, featuring an exquisite dial that recalls the grand and mysterious scenery of the eponymous valley. The pattern is moulded to reflect the gentle streams of the Iwate Prefecture’s Iwai River, where Grand Seiko’s mechanical watches are manufactured. Beautifully textured in a pale seafoam green colour, it is a fresh, multi-faceted rendition that beautifully reflects the angles of light, leaving a refreshing and inspired impression every time. 

The dial of the SLGH021 “Genbi Valley” is multi-faceted, proffering a refreshing and inspired impression with every glimpse. (Image: Grand Seiko)

The case is crafted of Ever-Brilliant steel, a stainless steel imbued with the highest level of corrosion resistance in the world; the bracelet is likewise endowed, together making the timepiece the first of the Evolution 9 family to incorporate the material. Outfitted with the Calibre 9SA5 Hi-beat 36000 automatic movement, the lightweight timepiece achieves 80 hours of operations when fully wound. Only 1,000 pieces of the limited edition timepiece are available.

A. Lange & Söhne celebrate 25th anniversary of the Datograph with a new launch

Celebrating 25 years since the launch of its first-ever Datograph, A. Lange & Söhne ushers in a new era for the iconic model with two new additions. The German manufacturer of luxury timepieces unveiled the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon and the Datograph Up/Down at the event.  

The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon in Honeygold “Lumen” is a horological marvel thanks to its intricacies. It includes a perpetual calendar and a tourbillon with a stop-seconds mechanism. The semi-transparent dial puts on display the complications and genius engineering elements of the timepiece. Promising enhanced functionality, it is laced with a luminous coating that helps the display glow. The new datograph has been launched in a limited edition of just 50 pieces.

As for the Datograph Up/Down model, the enticing blue dial scores high on the visual front. It consists of an impressive sapphire-crystal caseback that makes a compelling case for the brand’s excellence in elegant craftsmanship. The special edition Datograph Up/Down in 18k white gold casing is limited to just 125 pieces.

Van Cleef & Arpels embraces nature and métiers d’art

Van Cleef & Arpels spotlights savoir-faire, craftsmanship and métiers d’art this year with a gorgeous range of bejewelled timepieces and precious objects.

Among its releases are new additions to its Poetic Complications watch collection. The Maison’s Lady Arpels Jour Nuit timepiece, first launched in 2008, has now been reinterpreted as two models in 33m and 38m, equipped with a 24-hour rotating disc. Their dials depict a starry night sky, with the moon and stars paved with diamonds, and in perpetual pursuit of the sun — which is festooned with either snow-set yellow sapphires or guilloché yellow gold. Murano aventurine glass is used for the dial and supports an openwork structure that holds the stars.

The Lady Arpels Jour Nuit, 38mm, features a horizon of white mother-of-pearl with a guilloché effect, while the Lady Jour Nuit, 33mm, has this in blue. On the back of the case and covering its oscillating weight is sapphire crystal, which is adorned with a fairy motif applied using an enamel decal technique.

watches and wonders 2024 highlights and launches - Van Cleef & Arpels
Lady Arpels Brise d’Été. (Image: Van Cleef & Arpels)

Another standout in Poetic Complications is the nature-inspired Lady Arpels Brise D’Été watch, where white- and yellow-gold butterflies in plique-à-jour enamel tell the time. An on-demand animation movement incorporated in the watch enables these butterflies to flutter around, while their surrounding flowers — crafted with vallonné enamel and spessartite garnet — sway against the backdrop of a matte mother-of-pearl dial.

Van Cleef & Arpels has also expanded its Extraordinary Dials line with two new limited-edition and numbered watches featuring three-dimensional scenes enclosed inside a 41mm case. The Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté is a marvel with its enchanting scene of a fairy picking flowers underneath the morning sun. These blooms are mounted with yellow sapphires and embellished with façonné enamel, and joined by white gold leaves and intricate details in plique-à-jour enamel and diamonds. The fairy sports luminous, pearly-white plique-à-jour enamel wings, and above her, the sun sparkles with its array of spessartite garnets, coloured sapphires, and diamonds. Its rays are attached to the turquoise sky with a lifted setting, creating the illusion that its stones are suspended in the air. This lovely timepiece comes on an alligator leather bracelet.

The other variation, Lady Arpels Nuit Enchantée, is just as spectacular. Here, the fairy — with her wings in glitter plique-à-jour — rests in a cave amidst yellow sapphire-set flowers and various fancy-cut sapphires in pink and purple hues. Crystals hang from the top and walls of the cave, and the moon and stars, which are applied with grisaille enamel, peek through an opening. The dial also features rock crystal decorated with rose gold hour markers.

Van Cleef & Arpels has also expanded its slate of automatons, which it first unveiled in 2022, with two new additions inspired by flora and fauna. The Apparition Des Baies Automaton is a fascinating sight, comprising 112 lacquered rose-gold leaves folded into a dome. When set in motion, these unfurl to reveal a white-gold, diamond and sapphire bird within that spreads its wings and takes flight, before returning to its cradle of leaves. The automaton’s base comprises two dalmatian jasper structures and a bowl crafted in rare pink thulite. A white-gold butterfly with engraved wings is delicately perched on a rose-gold branch and marks the passing of time, based on the hours indicated on the rotating ring bedecked with golden beads and hour markers set in yellow gold and diamonds.

Another masterpiece is the Bouton d’Or, which features the “paillette”, a motif reminiscent of sequins. It was created by Van Cleef & Arpels in the mid-1930s. When activated, a fairy with a rose-cut diamond face, rose-gold gown fringed with blue lacquer, and plique-à-jour enamel wings pirouettes gracefully while clutching a briolette-cut sapphire in her hands. Hand-crafted and assembled stems of gold “paillette” gently curve toward and surround her as she dances above the automaton’s base of a violet charoite bowl set atop pink thulite.

Both table ornaments stand at around 30 centimetres and are accompanied by a specially composed, sweet melody that plays when they’re in action. They were created in collaboration with automaton maker François Junod.

View Van Cleef & Arpels’ other Watches and Wonders 2024 highlights and launches below:

Emmelyn Mah, Pallabi Bose, Sara Yap, Srijoni Gupta Roy and Surabhi Redkar contributed reporting.

Additional reporting and videos by François Oosthuizen, Lynette Koh and Stephanie Ip.

(Main and featured images: Rolex)

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

– Where is Watches and Wonders in 2024?

Like previous editions, Watches and Wonders 2024 is held at the Palexpo in Geneva, Switzerland.

– How do you get invited to Watches and Wonders?

Media, professionals working in the watch industry, and guests of the brands are typically the ones who get invited to Watches and Wonders, and are granted access to its closed-door events. The ticketed event is open to the public for its last three days.

– What date is Watches and Wonders?

Watches and Wonders is usually held in March or April, with the 2024 edition taking place from April 8 to 12 for invited guests and April 13 to 15 for the general public.

Source: Prestige Online

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