Why the Loire Valley Is Still the Best Region for Sauvignon Blanc
Perhaps it’s the lingering effects of the “Anything but Chardonnay” movement, or maybe it’s just that it makes an excellent pour, but Sauvignon Blanc is raging in popularity right now. While the leading source may be New Zealand and many sophisticated versions come out of Napa, Sonoma, Bordeaux, Italy, and other regions around the globe, it’s time to remember that the grape’s original home, the Loire Valley, is where some of the finest bottles come from, especially the Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé appellations. Between vineyards planted in old seabed soils covered with fossils and generations of winemaking history, Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire offers the finest examples of the variety.
“There’s Sauvignon Blanc and then there’s Sancerre,” says Luke Boland, corporate beverage director for Hospitality Department. “No one has to ‘sell’ Sancerre, because it sells itself, which is awesome! I can’t think of another wine region that has such a recognized cachet with zero sommelier or server effort.” While Boland’s clients at restaurants such as Point Seven and Coral Omakase in New York City are clearly onto something, it has been our experience that although not all Sauvignon Blancs are created equal, it helps to do a little explaining about the wine regions they are from and the characteristics they impart. That said, Boland simplifies things, explaining, “The long and short of it is: Sancerre is dry, citrusy, crisp, and mineral driven.”
Some bottles worth seeking out
Domaine Fouassier, Domaine de la Perriere, J. de Villebois
A combination of the French words for “wild” and “white,” it was long believed that Sauvignon Blanc originated in Bordeaux and migrated to the Loire Valley. However, historical documentation and DNA testing point to the latter as its original home, and the sheer quality of the wines made there indicate that it is the spiritual abode of the variety as well. “The combination of diverse soils, a naturally cool climate, abundant water from regular rainfall, and the strong day-to-night temperature shifts during ripening all create the ideal conditions to cultivate this grape in its purest form,” explains Alberto Tonetto, winemaker at J. de Villebois, a leading producer in the region.
While the Loire Valley is a large region spanning more than 600 miles of the Loire River, Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are located in the Upper Loire sub-region, referred to in France as Centre Loire. “The cool continental climate, influenced by the Loire River, allows for slow and balanced ripening, preserving the grape’s vibrant acidity and aromatic intensity,” says Merlin Vignal, marketing and communication manager at Saget La Perrière, which makes Sauvignon Blanc in both Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé as well as Touraine, an area known for more accessible and easy-drinking versions of the grape. “The region offers an incredible mosaic of soils and microclimates. This diversity enables Sauvignon Blanc to achieve its most refined and elegant expression, with wines that are both distinctive and true to their place of origin.”
While the majority of soils here are clay and limestone, some vineyards possess a type of flint called silex that is responsible for the mineral character of the region’s Sauvignon Blanc. “Less clay will give fruity and more open wines, and more clay will give depth and complexity with good potential to age,” points out Benoit Fouassier, owner and winemaker at Domaine Fouassier. Almost 25 percent of the domain’s vineyards are covered with silex, which Fouassier tells Robb Report, “express more intense mineral notes, with some smoky aromas.”
The dirt that makes it all possible
Domaine Fouassier
While Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are considered sister regions and most producers have vineyards in each, there are general differences that can be noted between the two. “Sancerre wines often express ripe fruit and candied notes; they tend to be richer, rounder, and more generous in style,” Tonetto says. “Pouilly-Fumé, on the other hand, is fresher and more vibrant, with balsamic, spicy nuances and a distinctive mineral salinity.” At J. de Villebois, grapes are tasted parcel by parcel to pinpoint the exact aromatic peak prior to harvest, and they are picked at night to preserve freshness. Domaine Fouassier has been farmed organically and biodynamically for more than 20 years, which Fouassier says is the “secret” to the mineral quality of his wines. Meanwhile, at Saget La Perrière, fermentation is carried out at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks to preserve aromatic purity, and aging on fine lees adds subtle texture and roundness, without masking freshness or minerality.
When it comes to Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc, wine educator and consultant Carrie Lyn Strong says, “There tends to be less tropical fruit and grapefruit pith flavors on the palate with more complex elegance reminiscent of sea spray and white flowers, like wearing white gloves and pearls on the beach.” She loves to pair it with goat cheese, which she recommends as an ingredient in beet salad, an omelet, or pasta with lemon and artichokes. We heartily agree—the bold acidity of Loire Sauvignon Blanc is fantastic with the tanginess of goat cheese. A native New Englander, Strong also loves the varietal with seafood such as raw oysters, steamed mussels, or lobster roll. It’s also an incredible pour on its own, and other producers to keep an eye for include Fournier Pere & Fils, Domaine Delaporte, Domaine Vacheron, Domaine Durand, and Domaine du Nozay.
Authors
-
Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen
