Runway Report: Milan Vogue Week Autumn/Winter 2024 Womenswear Highlights

Milan Fashion Week autumn/winter 2024 womenswear features a great deal of tailoring, a healthy dose of rebellion and unexpected colour stories. 

Keep reading to discover the Milan fashion week autumn/winter 2024 womenswear highlights

Fendi

For Fendi‘s autumn/winter 2024 collection, Kim Jones delves into a world where London’s easygoing vibes blend with Rome’s liberated spirit. In this domain, utility serves as a bold statement. The luxury here lies in the lavish comfort and unwavering confidence exuded by the clothing and accessories, allowing wearers to fully express themselves. With a sense of practicality and playfulness, there exists an underlying duality. Jones begins with structured tailoring, infusing a feminine allure through sleek lines and rounded silhouettes crafted from rich, compact wools. Robe-like coats are nonchalantly cinched at the waist or tied loosely, taking cues from traditional garments. Knitwear ranges from silk ribbed second-skins to more rustic styles like Aran and Guernsey sweaters. Utilitarian dresses adopt a “tailored flou” aesthetic, striking a balance between practicality and elegance while exuding a tough attitude. Contrasting these are sheer tulle and organza fabrics adorned with Roman-inspired prints or playful polka dots.

Dolce & Gabbana

If Dolce & Gabbana is to be believed, style transcends fashion. That’s precisely why the Italian maison chose tuxedo – the unwavering symbol of timelessness – to focus on in its autumn/winter 2024 collection. Anyone who’s even remotely familiar with the brand’s ethos would know that no matter how mundane and “ordinary” the central theme of the collection is, it inevitably feels intricate, tantalizing and – duh – glamorous. Naomi Campbell opened the show wearing a lace camisole with a sensual sheer skirt, more sheer followed – as blouses styled with wide-leg velvet trousers, dresses with satin lapels or bra tops. As expected, tailoring staples the collection together. Tuxedo jackets – whether cropped, fitted or oversized look surprisingly fresh alongside furs and patent-leather skirts, while cummerbunds are presented with new relevance when matched with sheer bustiers and fishnet tops. 

Prada

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ autumn/winter 2024 collection evokes a sense of history within fashion, weaving together fragments of the past to explore contemporary notions of beauty. Nostalgia permeates the collection, drawing on various eras and times to create synchronous echoes that are given new meaning in the present – and through this emotional connection to bygone beauty, something new is born. Traditional pieces such as biker and bomber jackets, and knitwear are continuously reinvented through the incorporation of historical elements and updated silhouettes. The concept is further exemplified by garments carved out to reveal underlying layers. Delicate silk skirts contrast with structured wool tailoring, creating a dynamic balance between fragility and strength, while shoes and hats reach exaggerated proportions and hyper-feminine presentation. This emphasis on femininity translates into the accessories – handbags hang in suspension and sunglasses mimic make-up.

Versace

Versace‘s coed autumn/winter 2024 collection challenges societal norms and traditional notions of fashion. The daring designs turn power dressing on its head, with exaggerated proportions and unexpected pairings. From long, sweeping coats to short, structured jackets, the collection plays with length and shape. Sleek tailoring meets feminine touches in hourglass silhouettes and delicate chiffon accents. Atelier Versace’s signature techniques are evident in bustier tops and mini dresses, adding a touch of glamour to the rebellious aesthetic. The use of leather is both spontaneous and precise, draping effortlessly on skirts and tailored trousers for men. This collection boldly defies convention and showcases Versace’s creativity and precision in every piece.

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Gucci

Gucci‘s Sabato de Sarno had one question on his mind: what new possibilities could be unearthed in the timeless realm of coats? And at the autumn/winter 2024 show, he presented a breathtaking answer. The main coat, with its masculine structure and fabric, features a hidden buttoning on the back that transforms it into an all-encompassing embrace. This clever design is also applied to bombers, peacoats, and leather jackets. Deconstructed lace is adorned with delicate embroidery, other laces, or luxurious velvets. Shift dresses are a masterpiece of overlapping layers, held together by intricate laces. Jacquard prints reveal a mesmerizing heron design that is only discernible up close. Knitwear glimmers with transparent sequins or a subtle crystal fringe, creating a ribbed effect. Even traditional twin sets are transformed into unique statement pieces. As for colours – expect to find bold and unconventional shades alongside warm and comforting hues perfectly intertwined in each ensemble.

Bottega Veneta

Matthieu Blazy’s autumn/winter 2024 collection for Bottega Veneta captures a sense of urgency and rebirth, melding the past with the future. Pre-Intrecciato influences are evident in understated embellishments and purposeful simplicity, while fabrics and prints tell stories of time and transformation. Silhouettes from various eras combine to create a distinctly contemporary feel, one that is both protective and utilitarian. Materials undergo metamorphosis, transforming into practical, resilient versions of themselves. The result is a collection that embodies both humility and resilience – an ode to embracing change and creating a new future.