The 7 Greatest Loire Valley White Wines to Drink All Winter Lengthy
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Just because we’re in full on winter weather mode doesn’t mean we can’t drink white wine. We’re big fans of drinking “winter whites,” with a bit more structure and body that can hold up to heartier cold weather meals. Many of the wines produced in the Loire Valley are excellent companions to rib sticking winter fare.
When we say Loire Valley, we’re referring to wines that come from the hills adjacent to the Loire River. The entire valley is named for the river that runs through it, which happens to be France’s longest river. Its fertile slopes are known for world class examples of Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc in addition to rosé and red wines. The Val de Loire offers diverse terrain, soil types, and climates within three large sub-regions and many appellations whose names give rise to the wines produced there, such as Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, the two best known for Sauvignon Blanc. Sixty percent of the vineyards in the region are sustainably or organically farmed, with many domains implementing biodynamic practices as well. The Loire Valley is also quite famous with cyclists and day trippers who visit the region to check out the chateaus and royal estates as well as the wine.
The most well-known appellations for Chenin Blanc are Savenièrres, which turns out full bodied, ageable versions with strong minerality and apple and pear flavors, and Vouvray, whose still, dry Chenins have high acidity and tropical fruit flavors. Anjou, considered the birthplace of Chenin Blanc, is producing versions in a style that seems to fall somewhere between that of its two neighbors.
People in Bordeaux will tell you that Sauvignon Blanc originated there and migrated to the Loire, but DNA analysis and historical documentation show that the reverse is true. In addition to Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, which takes its name from the town of Pouilly-sur-Loire and the greyish color that the grapes take on near harvest (fume is French for smoke), other appellations include Quincy, Reuilly, Touraine and Menetou-Salon. Although both Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé have bold minerality, strong acidity and flavors of citrus and stone fruit, it is said that Sancerre wines are best drunk when young, while Pouilly-Fumé will age gracefully.
Any of these wines will go well with seafood dishes, roast pork or chicken, or salads with goat cheese. They are perfect for all weather drinking, but versions which have spent some in oak or are aged a bit longer in bottle are excellent with heavier winter dishes. Here are seven whites from the Loire that are perfect to drink now.
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Domaine Belargus 2020 Rouères Chenin Blanc Anjou France
Image Credit: Domaine Belargus Last summer we hiked to the top of the very steep hill where grapes for Domaine Belargus Rouères are grown and once we reached the top we turned to the winemaker and asked what person in their right mind would have thought that this was a good place to plant vines. He nonchalantly responded that we should wait until we tasted the wine and that once we did our question would be answered. One taste of the 2020 was all we needed to answer the question…the person who planted the vines was clearly a genius because this is one of the best Chenin Blancs from Anjou that we have ever tasted. It explodes from the glass with aromas of peach, pear, quince, freshly picked mushrooms, and citrus blossoms and there is a seamless transition from aromas to flavors of the same fruits in the mid palate. It is big, bold, full-bodied, and voluptuous, and each sip leaves you begging for another.
Buy Now: $141
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Didier Dagueneau 2020 Silex Pouilly-Fumé
Image Credit: Didier Dagueneau This delightful Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé is an excellent example of a white wine that pairs perfectly with heartier winter meals. Winemaker Didier Dagueneau was a very well-respected winemaker in the Loire Valley until his death in 2008; however, his legend lives on, and his wines remain highly sought after by collectors. The 2020 has aromas of flint, acacia honey, and nectarine and is full bodied on the palate with flavors of citrus blossom, caramelized pineapple, Fuji apple, yellow peach, and Bartlett pear.
Buy Now: $211
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Nicolas Joly 2019 Savennières Clos de La Bergerie
Image Credit: Nicolas Joly Nicolas Joly attended Columbia University in NYC and worked as an investment banker at JP Morgan before returning to his family’s estate. He is one of the pioneers of the French biodynamic wine movement and when he came back to the Loire Valley, rather than agreeing with his family’s modern principles of grape farming, he began reading about, learning, and implementing biodynamic farming. His Clos de La Bergerie 2019 has aromas of honeydew melon, white citrus flowers, jasmine, and white acacia blossoms. It is pleasant on the palate with flavors of mango, white peach, guava, and bright acidity in the finish.
Buy Now: $77
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Alphonse Mellot 2019 Edmond Sancerre
Image Credit: Alphonse Mellot Alphonse Mellot, a French tavern owner, began making wine to serve to his patrons in the 19th century and today winemaking is continued by 19th- and 20th-generation descendants Alphonse XVIII and Alphonse XIX. This stunning Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre is pale straw colored with gold highlights. It has aromas of lemon blossom, wet slate, vanilla, and mandarin pith. It is full bodied with bright but balanced acidity and flavors of acacia honey, tropical fruits, and apricot nectar.
Buy Now: $89
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Saget La Perrière Mégalithe Sancerre 2018
Image Credit: Saget La Perrière For all the wineries we have visited, we have never seen a tank room set into a cave as large as the one owned by Saget La Perrière. It measures approximately 32,000 square feet and offers a perfectly cool environment to age the estate’s wines. Mégalithe is its icon label, first produced in 1998 and designed to showcase Sauvignon Blanc’s ability to age elegantly. The grapes come from a single 24-acre vineyard called Les Royeux; after pressing a portion is fermented in 300-liter oak barrels and the rest is fermented in stainless steel tanks. Aromas of wet slate, vanilla, and acacia honey lead you to flavors of ripe white peach, apricot, and mango. It is very full bodied with balanced acidity and a nice long finish.
Buy Now: $67
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Guiberteau 2018 Brézé Saumur Blanc Saumur Loire Valley France
Image Credit: Guiberteau The Guilberteau estate was founded in the early 1900s by Clement Manguin and then was transferred to his son in law Robert Guiberteau, who subsequently purchased several acres on the Brézé hill. Today the estate is managed by Romain Guiberteau, who converted the vineyards to organic principles in 2000 and received certification in 2007. His 2018 Saumur Blanc is pale straw colored with aromas of lemon blossom, wet slate, Honeycrisp apple, jasmine, and citrus pith and flavors of quince, baked apple, vanilla, with just a hint of white peach in the long-lasting finish.
Buy Now: $100
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François Cotat 2022 La Grande Côte Sancerre Loire Valley France
Image Credit: François Cotat The Cotat family has been well known in Sancerre since the early 1940s and today winemaker François cultivates just about 7.5 acres dedicated to a majority of Sauvignon Blanc and a lesser amount of Pinot Noir. His La Grande Côte is straw colored in the glass with aromas of lemon grass, wet slate, and tropical fruits. It is bold on the palate with flavors of pineapple, mango, and guava with a bright burst of acidity in the post palate.
Buy Now: $89
Source: Robb Report